It was my birthday last Tuesday, and since birthdays tend to give me mild anxiety, I decided to go to Tredwell’s with a few friends and keep it chilled. I’d been wanting to go there for a while. I don’t really know why, I had come across it a while back and it had stuck in my mind. Tredwell’s is Marcus Wareing’s latest venture in the heart of the West End and it focuses on serving up modern British cuisine with a twist.
I booked with Open Table and got an exclusive offer through them. This included three courses, an Amuse Bouche and a mulled wine Bellini. Not bad, not bad at all. The Bellini was so yummy, and I absolutely loved the Amuse Bouche. Pumpkin soup with gingerbread mousse, and rosemary baked bread with salted butter. The hot pumpkin soup mixed with the cold mousse created a sweet and nutty taste sensation and the hot to cold element made me feel like I was eating something out of ‘the Folk of the Faraway Tree’. This pleased me immensely. The bread and butter was so delicious that I probably could have stuffed much more in my face and been very happy. The hint of rosemary mixed with the salty butter and the natural oil in the bread really was a winning combination.
For entree I ordered the smoked cod rillettes with confit egg yolk, black olive caramel and toast. The fish was quite salty, and this was further enhanced by the capers, but it was mellowed by the creamy egg yolk. The combination of all these elements, the richness, combined with the crunchy dryness of the toast perfectly balanced out on the palate. It was delicious, even though eating it inspired me to drink a glass of water. I’m terrible at making myself drink water, not generally a fan, so I’d say even that was a bonus!
Main was the ‘Lake District’ beef onglet with braised shallot and peppercorn sauce. I ordered mine medium but it felt closer to medium-rare. My friend who had ordered her’s medium-rare recieved it rare. My other friend that had ordered his rare, got it blue. ‘It’s much healthier to eat it like this’ he assured me, as his jaw ground up and down, ten to the dozen, to work through it. Not saying much, since he had just spent the last week in the frozen wilderness eating goats heart. True story.
Regardless, the flavours were delicious, though I wouldn’t have minded more of the peppercorn sauce. I especially enjoyed the shallot which was perfectly sticky and caramelised. We ordered some greens and chips as a side, both of which were fantastic. Especially the chips which were super crunchy on the outside and soft and fluffy on the inside, exactly the way they should be.
I think after the Amuse Bouche I was most excited by the dessert. I ordered the Yorkshire rhubarb, ginger cake and buttermilk mousse. I was so excited to see the beautifully bright rhubarb sitting alongside a flavourful rhubarb jelly and intermingling with the velvety mouse that I completely forgot there was ginger cake buried under all that ‘happy’. I was pleasantly surprised when I eventually found it and was reminded of its existence.
All in all it was a lovely dinner. The staff are very pleasant if not overly effusive or particularly smiley. They did bring me out a birthday plate with salted caramel truffles so my friends could (slightly awkwardly) sing me Happy Birthday. Good fun, and a great way to usher in my twenty fifth *cough* year.
Tredwell’s – 4A Upper St Martin’s Lane
London, WC2H 9NY
Phone – 0203 764 0840